Two way switch, or three way switch?

Switches are classified according to the arrangement of their contacts in electronics. Electricians installing building wiring use different nomenclature, such as “one-way”, “two-way”, “three-way” and “four-way” switches, which have different meanings in North American and British cultural regions. If we say one-way switch in British cultural regions, it will be described as two-way switch in North American regions; and two-way switch will be described as three way switch and so forth.

As a result, sometimes people will make misunderstanding about them. For example, people from USA say two-way light switch actually is called one-way light switch in UK. And if they don’t know the reason, they will get into a fight.

Table below is to distinguish the difference between them. (Pole means separate circuit which are controlled by a switch. Throws means separate position that the switch can adopt.)


Remote Light Switch – More Convenience

When using traditional light switch, most of people would complain that they have to get up to turn off the light every time when they intend to go sleep. This can be a real pain, especially for the wheel chair users or people with limited mobility.

Now a new and improved remote light switch allows you to control your lights wirelessly. This kind of switch is more beneficial than the traditional light switch and is especially useful for people with impaired mobility and other problems. It acts much like a remote controlled lighting fixture; controlled by a radio or other signal and does not require an operator to touch the switch. You simply install the switch to an overhead light and when you flip the switch, a small charge is produced by a miniscule generator. This charge is what actually powers the small control and sends out the signal that is received by your light fixture and the light is turned on/off. The remote switch uses batteries with a low and safe voltage; avoiding the risk of electric shock if a user touches a switch with wet hands, and allows switching apparatus from a location without a wired switch.

One additional benefit of remote switch for families with children is if your kids have trouble falling asleep and need a light on to feel comfortable, you can reduce your electricity usage by turning the lights off after they are asleep. A remote control light switch will allow you to do that without getting out of bed yourself, and without disturbing the children and waking them up.

However, the wireless switches are actually not intended to completely replace traditional wall switches. Although it would be an excellent idea in many homes, it still has some problems. The transmitter and receiver use a low-strength radio signal to communicate. Most devices are designed for use within a range of 100 feet. Metal barriers will distort radio waves and reduce this effective distance. In some models, if the signal weakens over time or stops working, you must change the batteries.

As a result, when you decide to use remote light switch, you should take these problems into consideration in addition to its benefits.

Find excellent remote light switch from

How to Choose a Remote Light Switch for Wall?

Since wall light switch is closely related with human security, consumers should choose high security switches. There are many different kinds to choose from, and some might suit your project better than others. Here are some advice to help you make the right decision.

Switch panel

Size of switch panel should be consistent with that of connection box. Remember to bear in mind that choosing switch panel which has smooth surface, visible brand identity, anti-fake label and safety certification mark. Flame retardation and soundness of switch material is necessary. Generally speaking, height of switch should be 1200~1350 mm, the distance along the door frame 150 to 200 mm, and height of outlet 200 to 300 mm.

Switch security

Internal wire connection plays a great role in switch’s security. At present the most advanced connection mode is speed terminal connection structure. It is very simple; all you need to do is to insert the wire into the terminal. There is no exposure to the live parts, so no electric shock in construction.

There are also switches specially designed for the kitchen, which installs the water splash box or plastic baffle on the panel. It is effective to prevent oil, steam intrusion, short circuits caused by moisture, and keep long life.

Pay attention when you buy switches:

  1. Appearance: pattern and color of switch should conform to the style of the room. For example, if the overall tone of room decoration is light colored, you should not choose black, brown or other dark switches.
  1. Hand feel: switches at high quality are made of the advanced materials such as polycarbonate. They are characterized by high fire resistance, moisture resistance and anti-collision. Fine switch requires smooth surface, no bubbles, no scratches, and no stains.
  1. Brand: to use switches of famous brands. The switch quality is the key for electrical appliances working normally. Switches from small manufacturers are very unreliable, which has short life span. But frequently change of switch is really troublesome. Most well-known brands make commitment to the consumers the switch “available for 15 years,” “guarantee working life of 12 years”, “continuous on/off 10,000 times”, etc.
  1. Mark: pay attention to the mark on the switches, including safety certification, the rated current and voltage.
  1. Packaging: there should be addresses and phone number

1 Channel 30A DC Remote Control Switch Electric Golf Cart ON and OFF

Question from customer:

My target is to install a remote control system to my remote electric golf cart. The RF wireless receiver will be supplied by the 12V/26A of the caddy battery. It will be fixed on the “ON/OFF” switch of the caddy. The transmitter will cut or open the switch. Do you have any suggestions?



We recommend the model 1 channel 30A dc remote control kit (S1PX-DC12&C-2). It is 1 channel 30A remote controller with direct current output. You don’t have to supply any power to the controlled device because it will get from powered receiver. It is applied for controlling light, motors, fans, electrically operated doors/ locks/windows/ blinds/cars or other appliances with DC12. The working distance is about 100m, but if you want to prolong control distance, you can add an external extended antenna.


The wiring is very easy. Your switch is connected to “+&-” OUT terminals on the receiver. And supply DC power to another “+&-” terminals of the receiver.


And you will get a handy transmitter with 2 buttons. We recommend you can set Latched Mode for this controlling. Press button 1, start remote golf cart; press button 2, stop remote golf cart.

Our Automation, A better Choice

We often choose IR remote control to switch lamps on and off. It features convenience and safety, and most of which has great functions of dimming, speed regulation and mode changing. However, When using IR remote control, transmitters and receivers must be almost directly aligned to communicate, which means the controller must point at the LED light. Common materials such as people, walls, plants, etc. can block transmission. Moreover, performance drops off with longer distances.

At this time RF remote control will be more suitable. Its advantages of no line of sight, no block by common materials and longer range can make up for the shortcoming of IR remote control

RF Remote Control from is widely used for remote controlling every kind of electrical devices on and off, including lights, fans, audio equipment, digital camera, etc. The longest transmitting range is up to about 2000M. 

They are also applied for running motor forward and reverse.

Rallycross Pneumatic Timer Switch

I attended a East Tennessee Region Rallycross earlier this year.  They were using a pneumatic timing switch instead of a stopwatch.  It seemed to be working very well.  The Middle Georgia Region where I live just started a Rallycross program but had been using stopwatches for timing.  The pneumatic switch is a much easier method than the stopwatch.

So, I contacted Ted Visscher who had built the system East Tennessee Region uses.  He shared some links to information for building the switches.  This link was a good start.  It led me to this link  The Detroit Region had designed a pneumatic switch and posted how they built it.  This was the switch setup I was looking for.

I started looking for the parts on the internet and found the suppliers listed below in the parts list below.  I posted the prices I paid for the parts as a reference.  They may be available cheaper by other vendors.

Pneumatic Timing System Parts List


 QTY    SIZE                                SPECIFICATION           COST                    SOURCE

2        #32NO-WB                     Switch                              $56.72            Kleen-Rite Corp.

2        1/2″                                  Wire Clamp                       $1.00            Ace Hardware

4        2 Contact Connectors       Hopkins 47965                    $5.98            Autozone

60′     3/8″IDx5/8″OD                  Rubber Hose                     $52.34            Kleen-Rite Corp.

4        3/8″                                 Hose Plug                           Free             Fabricated

4        1/4″x2″                             Eyebolt                                $3.16           Ace Hardware

10      5/8″                                 Hose Clamps                       $4.50           E-Bay

2        3/8″                                 Brass pneumatic “T”             $13.98          Ace Hardware

4        8″-10″                              Tent Stakes 86565                $3.89          Ace Hardware

4        21″                                  Rubber Bungees                   $3.52          E-Bay

2        35 Qt.                            Sterilite Latch Tote               $18.00          Family Dollar

2        RJ45                              Computer Connector              Free           Donated

250′   Cat-5                             Computer Cable                    Free           Donated

$160.09        Total

Then I looked up the Axware forum online at .  I learned from it that the Axware System hardware requires a normally closed circuit for the trigger.  So, the pneumatic switch needed a circuit to convert the normally open contacts to a normally closed signal for the Axware box.

They had a circuit they had designed using a Mosfet as a switch to convert from a normally open to a normally closed switch signal at  It looked simple, so I built one for each switch inside a plastic electrical outlet box.

I hardwired some Cat-5 cable into the box to plug into the Axware System box with RJ45 connectors.  The circuit is powered by a 12v AC/DC wall wart that I hardwired to the circuit. The pneumatic switches connect to the box using a cable made as shown on the Axware drawing at .

Below is a listing of the parts I bought to make the normally closed circuits.

Normally Closed Circuit for Axware Box

QTY     SIZE                               SPECIFICATION           COST                    SOURCE

2        IRF-510                            Mosfet 276-2072                 $4.98         Radio Shack

2        10K Ohm                         1/4W Resistors 271-1335        $1.49           Radio Shack

1         120V/12V                          AC-DC 55057391              $11.99           Radio Shack

1         Single Outlet box             Plastic                              $0.59           Ace Hardware

2         RJ45                                Computer plugs               Free            Donated

1         Outlet box cover              with 2 RJ45 sockets            Free            Donated

4 ft.    Cat-5                               Cable                               Free            Donated

$19.05          Total

We tested the system at a Middle Georgia Region Rallycross on 03/15/2014.  It worked well, but we were getting some false tripping and the Axware system would loose track if we launched more than one car at the time.  We started using a stopwatch as a backup to the system to avoid too many reruns.

I am working on some ideas that may fix those issues.  I plan to try adjusting the sensitivity of the switch which may reduce the false triggers.  I also plan to put some baby powder in the air line to keep it from sticking together inside.

One thing we tried by the end of the day was to lessen the tension on the air line.  This allowed the diameter of the line to say larger which seemed to help during the fun runs.

With some adjustments, we should end up with a system that is very reliable.

I am working an improvement which will make the system much easier to use and set up.  I found some wireless switches online at .  They offer a two channel receiver with a transmitter.  The combo can be ordered with a short or long range capability and with an extra transmitter.  Each transmitter can be set to operate a separate relay inside the receiver.  The relays have normally open and normally closed contacts.  So, I ordered the parts below and began construction once they arrived.  It took about three weeks to get here from China.

Radios & Delay/Latch Circuit

QTY    SIZE                               SPECIFICATION           COST                    SOURCE

2        IRF-510                           Mosfet 276-2072                $4.98

1         2CH 2000M                    Transmitter & Receiver    $50.00

Kit  0020213

(S2U-DC06/09/12/24-ANT2 & CB-2)

1         2CH 2000M                    Transmitter                      $37.00

0021045 (CB-2N)

(This Transmitter would also work and is cheaper at $22.00   0021024 (CB-2))

1         120V/12V                         AC-DC Adapter                 $8.00

0010124 (A-02)

Insurance and Shipping       $18.99

2        IRF-510                           Mosfet 276-2072                  $4.98        Radio Shack

2        220uf 35V                       Capacitor 272-1029             $2.98        Radio Shack

2        10K                                Multi-turn Pot 271-0343        $5.98        Radio Shack

2        9V                                  Battery Clip 270-0324         $2.99        Radio Shack

$135.90        Total

I ordered one transmitter with leads already coming out of the transmitter to see if it could be attached to directly to the pneumatic switch.  It did work, but not well.  The transmitter was programmed to trigger once a second for four seconds to ensure that when the wires were connected through a switch that the signal was received by the transmitter.  That would cause issues for the Axware box.

I decided to attach the switch directly to the circuit board in parallel to the push-button switch to see if that would work.  It also worked, but again not well.  If the pneumatic switch was not held closed for about a half second, the receiver would not trigger the relays.  So, I needed a way to keep the signal from the pneumatic switch closed longer to ensure the receiver would trigger the relays.

I found a circuit at  that allows a delay to be used with another Mosfet circuit.  I used the equations they provided to calculate a circuit that can be kept closed for about .5 seconds to 3.5 seconds and is adjustable.

That is why there are several parts from Radio Shack in the list above.

Here is how the transmitters were rewired and the latching circuit added to the system.

The battery springs were removed by bending the tab back and forth until they snapped off. One of the two push button switches were shorted using a jumper soldered directly to the circuit board.

I found two old car chargers and cut the cords for use to attach the transmitters to the pneumatic switches.  These attach directly to the transmitters at one end and to a two prong plug at the other that matches the plugs on the switches.

I built the circuits by soldering the legs of the capacitor and trim pot. as shown.  Then I attached wires as shown and soldered the legs of the Mosfet into the circuit.  Leaving the circuit are three wires.  There is a B+, Ground and switched lead.  The cardboard is to separate my added parts from the circuit board.

The switched lead is attached to the ground terminal on the transmitter.  B+ from the battery is attached to the B+ terminal on the transmitter.  Then a lead is soldered onto the on/off switch and run to the latch circuit B+ lead.  This allows the transmitter battery to be turned off to save the batteries.

The 9V battery clips attach to the battery since the springs for the battery connections were removed.  Note the batteries will not fit back into the transmitter, so they were just taped on so the batteries can be replaced as needed.

The circuit triggers the receiver every time I tried it.  The latch holds closed for about a second so I did not even adjust it.  Funtional testing will have to wait until I can borrow the timer and laptop after the next autocross.

We got to test the timer using the radios on Saturday 04/05/2014.  It worked during testing but we did have a few issues.  While the transmitters were close to the receiver, it worked every time.  However, when we moved about 100 yards away, the receiver did not work every time.  Since there were trees and other obstructions we decided it worked well enough to test it at the next Rallycross on 04/26/2014.

Before then, I will find a small metal plate to attach the receiver antenna’s magnetic base to keep it standing vertically.  That may help since the receiver antenna was mounted horizontal on the table leg during our first test.  I may also use a piece of PVC pipe to set the transmitters in so their antennas will stay vertical.  The radios are supposed to be good for 300 meters.

The latch circuits seemed to do the job and the receiver was working well when we had signal.  The Axware Timer also seemed to accept the inputs without issue.

More to come after the next Rallycross.

How to control 2 rolling shutters of motor remote control by one remote?

How to control 2 rolling shutters by one remote? – Our Automation

“How to remote control 2 rolling shutters open or close at the same time without going from here to there? The electric remote control motor of rolling shutters operate on 240V. Can you suggest something as a solution? Thanks.” One customer asked.


We suggested him choose two motor remote control  receivers model of S1FC-AC220 (operating voltage range is AC 100V ~ 240V); and one long distance remote transmitter CV-4.


As seen in the picture of remote, button ▲ is supposed to control motor of rolling shutters forward direction; button ▼ is to control reversal direction. Button ■ is to stop the rotation.

Wiring diagram is as follow:

Connect live wire to terminal “L” and neutral wire to terminal “N”. Then connect three wires of rolling shutter motor to terminals “UP”, “COMMON” and “DOWN”.


Press button ▲, 4 motors remote control of rolling shutter rotate continuously in forward direction at the same time.

Press button ■, rotation stops.

Press button ▼, 4 motors remote control of rolling shutter rotate continuously in reversal direction at the same time.

Press button ■, rotation stops.

Motor remote controll products can be found on

How to Change an Ordinary Socket to a Remote Control Socket


Wireless Remote Control for Remote Control Socket

Remote control socket is a socket whose power switch can be controlled by a transmitter. This remote control socket may be any of a socket in your home. If you want a AC remote control socket, you may choose a wireless remote control kit.

With such combination, you can easily control receiver’s power switch with a transmitter. Applications include lights, motors, Doors, Locks, windows, blinds, cars and various equipments。

Model 0020136 (S1PXW-AC220-ANT2 & CC-2) is a wireless remote control kit that can be used for remote control socket. The receiver model 0020134 (S1PXW-AC220-ANT2) has one channel. Both its power input and power output are AC100 ~240V and the two are consistent, that is, when the power supply inputs AC100V power, the Terminal A and Terminal B will output AC100 V power. The transmitter 0021061 (CC-2) has 2 buttons and a sliding cover which…

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